Showing posts with label home. Show all posts
Showing posts with label home. Show all posts

Tuesday, 28 October 2014

The PUWYs: On coming home, reverse culture shock, and life after Japan

It’s been almost 3 months since I posted here, and I don’t now how that quarter-year passed so quickly. I moved countries, towns and houses, twice. I started a new job. I experienced a mellow English Autumn for the first time, made a lot of changes in my life, and had some powerful highs and lows.

I’d like to finish posting some of the pictures and memories from Japan I still having kicking around, while I still remember them. After that, I doubt I’ll be using this blog much, at least until another purpose for it comes along. For the first time since being a teenager, I have the compulsion to write a lot for myself – maybe because it’s a similarly transitional time.

A friend from work, 30 and comfortingly on top of her shit, actually has a word for this stage of life: the PUWYs (pronounced pewies) or Post University Wilderness Years. She tells me that almost all her friends of her age, who are now largely settled and happy in their careers, locations, relationships and lives, had no clue what they were doing at 23. The markers of adulthood our parents enjoyed at our age – relatively easy-found and well-paid jobs, cars, mortgages, marriages – are no longer attained so soon. No one tells you this, but these may be the most challenging years of your life.

I know exactly what she means. But that said, I’m ok with these new challenges. This feels like a time for taking time, for thinking about goals, working hard and enjoying the company of friends from school, university and Japan, all making our way in the big metropolis. It’s good to finally stay in a country where I’ve never lived but that always felt like home.

Leaving Japan in August was the right thing to do, but it was such a wrench saying goodbye to friends there, and home was a shock in unexpected ways. I’d been told to expect reverse culture shock, but the brusqueness of people in public still felt jarring. I still can’t help bowing in some situations, and miss the politeness and consideration of Japanese people very much. I came back to the Edinburgh International Festival in August, and would end days in town feeling exhausted by seeing the multitudes of varied shapes, sizes, ethnicities and fashion choices jostling around me.

On my first day in London, I stood helplessly by as people pushed in front of me in the taxi rank, until a tiny old man tapped me on the shoulder and said kindly, “You have to be forceful in London!” For the first few weeks in my new town, I found myself weirdly wishing that everyone on the streets were Japanese. Two months later the shock has worn off, and I’m so happy to be back in my own country where I can interact with strangers on trains and act with a different kind of self-reliance.

I’m working in a very academic boarding school doing alumni relations and fundraising. I like having the freedom to define my own role - which is a challenging one as it amalgamates 3 people’s previous jobs - being able to boss around an intern, and the business of building a community, something which I’ve found comes kind of naturally. I get to edit and produce 4 magazines a year, some with students, and organise events from galas in the Globe Theatre to memorial lacrosse matches.

The school is a huge campus including a lake, a forest and a horse paddock, surrounded by a high brick wall and suspiciously called ‘Narnia’ by the locals. We can buy eggs from the chicken coops and honey from the bee hives. Morning cake and afternoon tea happens every day in the staffroom, and the History Department secret drinks parties not that less often. The girls are intimidatingly ambitious, confident and focused, and I find myself setting higher goals for myself as I see what they go on to do. That said, I know I don’t want to spend my life making money for the richest people in the country, even with all the scholarships they do provide. I’m learning as much as I can while I work out how exactly I want to use it.

I’m living in a huge Victorian house 5 minutes’ walk from work, with a family of modern hippies and 3 other lodgers. While my room is neat and atmospheric, with high ceilings, a big old wardrobe and a fireplace, the rest of the house is stuffed to the rafters with old newspapers, paintings, bike wheels, plants, sacks of grains, telephones that don’t work, strings of fairy lights and dairy-free products.

I was assured on viewing the house that this was a intermediary phase while some rooms were prepared for foster kids (arriving in about 5 months, at which point I will be homeless). I soon realised that this kind of clutter takes years to accumulate and probably years to get rid of. But, it’s cosy and full of good cooking smells and there’s a pianola in the hall (the only house rule is it musn’t be played after midnight). We don’t use Wifi (it goes in your brain, you know), the microwave is safely placed in the pantry for the same reason, and all our soaps come from powdery paper bags. There’s an inexplicable, faint noise at all times that sounds exactly like the house has a heartbeat.

The family is sweet and laugh a lot watching TV in the room next to mine. The matriarch, my landlady, spends mornings a lot of mornings in her dressing gown composing songs on her guitar about how much she hates traffic. She married the 2 daughters’ father on the spur of the moment in City Hall, both of them and 6 of their friends all dressed as Groucho Marx. She grows herbs and vegetables and picks apples from the tree in the garden, and likes fixing things using the spare electronics she hoards. One of the other lodgers is editing the new Star Wars movie, one is a bald Finnish man with many granola products in his cupboard, and one is almost too Italian to function. He pronounces the word biodegradable (oft-used around here) ‘bee-oh-dee-grad-ablay’, and has been known to stand hungover in the kitchen, squeezing lemon after lemon into a glass and murmuring “Santa Maria!”

I don’t have many photos to share of the time since I got back, partly because I’ve broken the iPhone addiction (a situation I intend to rectify ASAP. My Blackberry has taken to rattling randomly from time to time, like a Horcrux.) I like Instagramming and having a photo journal to look back on, but it comes with its own complications. When your life isn’t so photogenic, or you’re in transit and aren’t quite sure who you are or what you want, let alone how to present yourself, how can you communicate that authentically to such a broad group of people? Do you even want to? I think our generation has these questions to consider in a way only celebrities did in the past.

I’m coming a bit later to the PUWY party than many of my friends, and maybe I’m overthinking it. But I’m enjoying feeling alone and connected, and empty and full, and scared and brave, all at the same time. It’s pretty exciting.

In the name of posterity and nostalgia, Japan pictures to follow. In the name of not being too pretentious or rambling, I’ll shut up now. It’s good to be back.



Wednesday, 2 July 2014

ta-ta to tatami

It's now only a month until I leave, and time is flying by. About 6 weeks ago, all I wanted to do was get back to some home comforts. Now, I'm trying to hold on to each moment and each dear friend while I still can. Last week I turned 23, had a cocktail party my apartment is still recovering from, was offered and accepted a job back home, played in a taiko festival for about 900 people, was blindsided by conflicting emotions, tasted my first and last Joyfull meal, went to a jam sesh with some buddies. It's been a whirlwind that's not letting up, and while I can't wait to get home to the people and new things waiting there, I know it'll take a while to get used to the change of pace.

So, I'm trying to handle the business of packing up and taking off as naturally as possible, and the first step is sending home ahead all all the mementos and souvenirs I've picked up along the way. I'll most likely never be back and, before I pack up, I want to remember this apartment as it is - and also give my successor a sneak peek tour of where she'll be living. 

This is the entrance, where you leave shoes and change into slippers. 

And this is what you see walking in

To the right is the bathroom corner


And straight ahead is one of the tatami rooms 



Unfortunately I'll be giving the stacks of records and player back to my neighbour! 



This is in the hallway to the left of the door


If you turn left you're in the wee kitchen





Keep on going and you're in the second tatami room



(The doors on the right lead back into the kitchen, the doors on the left lead into the other tatami room)


The kitchen door leads out onto the balcony 



When you come in the front door, do a u-turn left to go into the bedroom





And that's it! Hopefully this is useful to my successor in imagining life here. 
I never thought I'd be able to live alone, but there have been very few moments this year when I've felt lonely. 

Monday, 3 March 2014

graduation musings and a mammoth photo diary



This Saturday morning saw me up a 6.30, primped and prepared and cycling to school as normal, but this time for my third graders’ graduation ceremony. I don’t get to teach third year high school classes (much to my dismay, since they’re great kids), but I do get to see them in cleaning time, at English club, practicing for English proficiency exams and interviews, and just general lunchtime and after-school chat. This week I received cookies, letters, and gifts from various students: all extremely hard-working, focused and mature young people. It’s been my privilege to help them even a little towards confidence with English speaking and with foreigners, and I mean that in the least cheesy possible way!

The ceremony was quite different to the prize giving I was used to as a senior school pupil in Scotland. I stood and bowed 12 times over the course of the event, not counting mini-bows, and most other people did a whole lot more. First we clapped for about 10 minutes as the third graders slowly trooped in by homeroom class, the brass band music stopping abruptly once they were all in. We sang the national anthem conducted by the singing master, on the flag and flower-bedecked podium.

Then each student shouted “Hai” as their name was called, and, accompanied by soft bittersweet music, their class representatives accepted some kind of certificate from the principal, sporting white gloves and a morning suit. A home economics teacher dressed in a beautiful hakama and flowers helped him. Speeches, punctuated by a lot of standing, sitting, and bowing, were given by guests and a valedictorian who cried from start to finish (the progressively sadder music really didn’t help!) We sang the school song, and Auld Lang Syne with Japanese words (of course I sang the Scots and just about started myself crying). Before being clapped out of the hall, the students stood by class and shouted their thanks to the teachers, bowing, giving thumbs up and punching the air respectively and very sweetly.

To an unsympathetic eye the ceremony may have seemed a little restrained – sterile or joyless, even. When I first saw the conclusion of a speech contest I was bewildered that the winning students didn’t look at all happy, that everything was so serious. I was trying to compare it to my own experience of funny speeches and asides by the headmasters, prize-receiving students taking selfies with the governor’s wife who gave them out in her pastel suit and wedding hat, impromptu standing ovations for the dux, etc. But I’m realising that the formality is just the way here, and that the ceremony is just one way of expressing the respect and gravity of the rite of passage. Of course everyone is feeling the same joy, sadness, and humanity that these occasions provoke. But, culturally, restraint and silence are seen as more profound than words and outpourings, which is reflected in the pageantry.

It was my first time not being the one graduating, taking a new step, transitioning, and I enjoyed it immensely. I was surprised by the strength of my own hopes and happiness for these teenagers whom I barely know and may never see again, but I do know I feel very lucky for the time I’ve had with them. 

Aside from that, today I'm just posting a bunch of random snaps taken since January - things I want to remember. 


Lakshmi guarding my spices




Back in January I went to a surprise birthday party that involved lots of babies and lots of dogs. Heaven is numerous cuddling options. 

Topher turned out to be a dog  whisperer. 



Also in January I took a little weekend road trip with some girlfriends up to Yufuin in Oita - a snowy little onsen town in the mountains. It got off to an excellent start with a gift from Alissa - one of the best Christmas presents ever!!  




We spent the weekend chatting in boiling water as snow settled on our hair, browsing in gift shops, and watching kagura. It was in a little town hall and all performed by high school boys. Before it started the organisers did an adorable dance. Twenty-something guys in the audience shouted out things that 70-something guys chuckled at. The crowd went crazy for a tiny elementary school kid playing taiko like a demon. 

The boy inside this huge costume somehow managed to move with the grace and power of a dragon... very impressive.

At the end they raffled off postcards and bags of rice, and by the time we left the snow had settled. It was really lovely to be a part of the small-town vibe for an evening. 

Onsening ^^ 

The view from our tatami room at the hostel. 


Winter wonderland! 

When we checked out, the super cute owners of the hostel called us back and sang "Country Roads" for us, with neither an explanation nor a hint of irony or cynicism. 


My alpaca headgear came in handy when I caught a fever! 



And the emojis continue to astound and appall me.  

A bit later in the month there was a mid-year conference, and an era party. 
...Which necessitated a lot of matcha-based foodstuffs the next morning. 

 Interesting interpretations of 'The Notebook" in my kids' textbook. 

This is what strawberries look like in Japan. Juicy, perfect, expensive. You can also buy them separately. As in, one, individually wrapped strawberry. I hate to think what's actually in them...


A typical school bento lunch. 


In February came the World Festa, an international exchange day that many of us ALTs volunteered at, and which involved silly wigs and, inexplicably, a bazooka. ^^ 
I'm not sure we brought enough Union Jacks.



Beauties.


You in the wrong hood fool. 




It was a great day of face painting, tea making, dancing, lip-synching, peace signs, and glitter glue. 

Feeling rebellious. 


Jo and I got the following Monday off, so we spent it in nearby Kagoshima sipping tea and shopping to our hearts' content. 

These bad bitches were the result of our British craft table and are now adorning my walls. God bless you ma'am. 

I went for a mid-week tomato ramen dinner with the lovely ladies of the English department. 


The usual strange sights from around Miyakonojo ^^

A few weekends ago I spent a Sunday at a cooking class and a flea market in the park - and reverting to childhood. 



And we found a cool new shop!  






I did some more decorating... 


 And made a Valentine. Bloody coastlines! 

And spend some quiet time at school making new information boards! 



The view from the afternoon.

And from my Saturday run


On this occasion said run involved a running, barking dog and a very hurried google search "how to survive dog attack." Luckily it didn't quite come to that. 

Then last weekend a bunch of us went skating in some other snowy onsen-y mountains! 

But we stuck to feet-only this time. 



Our subsequent trip to Fukuoka is singularly undocumented photographically speaking, which is kind of nice in a way. We ate Mexican, found an amazing old bar, shopped and saw kabuki theatre. In the atriums outside vendors sold omiyage and trinkets. People were dressed up in kimono and fancy clothes, or in the case of one old man, in an Hermes suit and tie with a fur wrap around his shoulders. He and other experts shouted out words in the theatre when the actors struck certain picturesque poses. I found out later they were calling the actor's name to show respect and encouragement, or to be even more respectful, the actor's father's name. 

Most stationary here seems to feature a cajoling, pleasant exhortation. 


Last week I strayed deeeep into the manga section of the bookstore in search of gifts. One is about all the powers from WWII characterised as boys. The other is about a girl who has to pretend to be a boy in a host club in a very posh high school. Both are pretty fascinating! 


This is just a magazine. I have no idea what it's about. 

A gift and a letter from graduation day. I exchanged emails with a lot of my students and I really hope they keep in touch! I'm going to miss them being around!! :( :( :( 

Yesterday I went to a pizza party with my taiko group at our sensei's house! He has a huge oven in his back garden/ ume orchard: great way to deal with a shochu hangover. I met a woman who gestured to her daughter and said "Do you know who she is?" I did but couldn't place her for sure. "She's in your class. I heard you were coming here so we came to see you!" It was actually really nice to chill with them both, but I'll never get used to strangers knowing the ins and outs of my social schedule. 


Those women are so relaxed and friendly, rolling dough and clearing up the little wooden cooking hut almost reminded my of Sunday dinners at my Gran's back home, when all the women would wash dishes after a 4.30pm roast. I felt really lucky to be allowed into their group for the year. 



 Sensei chillin. 

Treated myself to more gorgeous, cheap fresh flowers. 

Anyone know their name?